We left Chiang Mai at 6:45 PM on an overnight VIP bus. We boarded with a diverse assortment of trekkers and wealthy Thais. We spent the whole night twisting around from position to position trying to find a comfortable one. The roads were fairly good by Asian standards and I slept quite a bit. We arrived in Bangkok at 6 AM the next morning after about an 11 hour bus ride. We had a two hour layover in Bangkok after which we boarded another nice bus for the Cambodia border. An American with a Seattle Seahawks cap sat right in front of me. When we got the near the border, we stopped for lunch. Alex had three servings of kho pot moo (pork fried rice). When we got to the border around 2, we wound our way through the dusty border town. We were accosted by beggar children who wanted a handout or wanted to hold an umbrella for us.
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Alex relaxing in our VIP bus to the Cambodia-Thai border
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Eric cheesing
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Contemplation
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Contemplation sans audio
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Yours truly reading When God Weeps by Joni Eareckson Tada
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Welcome to the Kingdom of Cambodia
After going through Thai emigration and Cambodian immigration, we boarded a bus that took us to a money exchange place where our guide gave a broken English speech in an attempt to bilk us into exchanging money there at a horrible exchange rate. We declined and boarded a cross between a van and bus. It had two seats on one side and one on the other. We had an Australian gal, an American expat who worked (10 hour days, 7 days a week, for 6 weeks, then 3 weeks vacation) in Bahrain for a dredging company, a Japanese couple, a beer-swilling German, a quiet French lady who didn’t know much English, five Americans, one Canadian, and one Thai. The Japanese man, the Australian, and a Cambodian sat up front and talked about the World Series being between the Red Sox and the Rockies and how the first game was going to be tomorrow morning at 7 AM (local time). The guide told us upfront that the road between the border and Siem Reap is very bad and dusty and that it would take 5 hours despite it being only 150 km . “If it’s raining,” he said comfortingly, “’it will take 8 hours.” He cheerfully added, “In Thailand, many massage. In Cambodia, no need. Ride car, get massage.”
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Our “wonderful” little border-to-Siem-Reap bus
As I was sitting in a jump seat writing this post on my laptop, I experienced a new phenomenon in computing—involuntary typing. Another phenomenon that I experienced was that my screen and keyboard kept getting dustier and dustier. A final phenomenon was a sudden crash as my jump seat gave way and I ended up on the floor.
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Laptopping, writing this very blog post
Our guide wasn’t kidding about the roads! The road looked like the surface of the moon, only with more craters. It was so dusty, that while I started out with a red shirt and blue jeans, I ended up with a beige-ish dark red shirt and brown jeans. Smiling children played in the streets and waved cheerily to us as we passed. Naked babies gazed at us from their mothers’ hips. Our ride apparently at certain points coincided with bath time, so we got to observe quite a bit of their clothed bathing. We saw one nasty motorbike accident with the bike on its side, an unmoving figure sprawled out on the ground, and two men squatting beside him. Construction was everywhere on the road (taking advantage of the dry season to build bridges and put in culverts) and we followed far too many detours to count—probably at the average rate of about one every 10 minutes.
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A small example of the dust
When we stopped at about 6 pm for supper, we were mobbed by little kids trying to sell us postcards or get handouts. We went in and sat down as one big happy family: Americans, Canadian, Australian, German, French, and Thai. Kiat didn’t eat. He said, “No need. Full. Full of dirt.”
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A Cambodian gas station
We then got back in our bus and finished the last two hours of the trip. When we finally got to Siem Reap at 9:30—27 ½ hours after we left Chiang Mai—the bus took us to their preferred guest house. They pressured us to stay there, but we decided not to after we found we couldn’t put three in a room. So as we were leaving, they offered free tuk-tuk rides to another guest house (where they would also presumably get a commission). We accepted and stayed there. We had huge retinue of tuk-tuk drivers, tour company employees, and hotel staff hovering around us for quite a while in our rooms. They brought us cold bottled water, toilet paper, they let us use their cell phone to call a friend, etc, etc. After some time they finally left and I hopped in the shower. It has been a very, very long time since my hair (which was stiff with dust) has emitted such incredibly brown water when washed. Of course we don’t have hot water in our showers, as usual, but I’m amenable to that. Also, we have A/C in the rooms but we can’t use it unless we want to pay $15 a night instead of $9.