• 02Feb

    Here a news story about a family with whom I went to church while in Iraq:

    ISTANBUL, November 17 (Compass Direct News) – In prison at the age of 14 for having fatally stabbed her uncle in northern Iraq, Asya Ahmad Muhammad’s early release on Nov. 10 thanks to a juvenile court decision was overshadowed by fear of retaliation from her extended Muslim family.

    Also known as Maria, the now 16-year-old Muhammad was sentenced to five years in prison for killing her paternal uncle in self-defense on July 9, 2006 when he attacked her, her mother and little brother at their family kitchen utensil store in the outskirts of Dohuk. The uncle had cut her mother with a knife and was fiercely beating them for converting to Christianity and for “shaming” the family by working in public when Muhammad stabbed him.

    Clearing her of an original conviction for premeditated murder, the Erbil high court last year had reduced Muhammad’s sentence from five to three-and-a-half years, upholding an earlier decision that she was guilty of killing her uncle though she acted in defense of herself and others.

    (…)

    Muhammad’s father, Ahmad Muhammad Abdurahman, who converted in 1998 while working in Beirut, said that in the last week family members have called him twice telling him his days of joy are numbered.

    “My sisters called me, and my brother’s wife called me also [and said], ‘You are a shame. Don’t be happy in your family; we will never let you be happy in your family,’” Abdurahman told Compass.

    He explained that his change in faith was grounds for an “honor” crime in his Kurdish family, and even more so now that blood had been shed. His father, a Muslim cleric, was enraged by Abdurahman’s conversion. Abdurahman’s deceased brother, Sayeed, on five occasions had tried to kill him and had also burned down his house. Abdurahman has seven brothers.

    Abdurahman said that since the release of his only daughter, he has left his old home but remains in the town of Dohuk, unsure of what the next step is for his family. He said his only hope now is to come up with the “blood money” necessary to buy peace with his family for his brother’s death. The court has set this amount at 10 million Iraqi dinars (US$8,670).

    (…)

    Despite the recent waves of violence in Mosul, south of Dohuk in northern Iraq, Abdurahman said that the Kurdish part of the country is still considered a safe haven for Christians, where many Christian families from Mosul have also fled in recent weeks

    “Many Christians come here from Mosul and Baghdad, and the Kurdish government does a good job to protect Christians,” he said. “That’s what I see.”

    He noted, however, that according to Iraqi law it is still not possible for Iraqis to change their religion on their national identification cards.

    “It is my dream that one day I will be free to change my ID card,” he said. “My card now writes ‘Muslim.’ But my faith is Christian.”

    Abdurahman asked for prayer as he looks for a job or a way to get out of Iraq.

    “I don’t know what will come from God,” he said. “I’m not worried about that, but my family needs help, they need food and things … I’m just thanking God that he brought my sheep, my daughter, into the family again.”

  • 11Jun
    Categories: Photos Comments: 0


    A central square in Erbil


    Directing traffic


    Readjusting the veil, as is the constant habit (no pun intended)


    Toyota and kids hanging out


    Hanging out




    One of many checkpoints





    Donkey and man




    Schwarma!

  • 02Jun
    Categories: Photos Comments: 4

    Kurds are incredibly pro-American. One Kurdish man told one of my companions, “The Arabs hate us, the Iranians hate us, the Turks hate us… if it weren’t for Americans, we would have no friends in the whole world.” Another Kurd told me (on the flight from Dubai to Erbil) that it would be a “disaster” if the U.S. left Iraq. He also said that Iraq needs a former Ba’athist–a good Ba’athist–as prime minister to bring stability: they have experience ruling Iraq and they ruled it stably. (I asked him whether the same stability would be possible without a reign of terror, a question to which he gave no evidence to back up his perfunctory affirmative.) He was a fan of Ayad Allawi and thought he wasn’t given enough time to prove himself. A Kurdish cloth seller in the souk made an interesting comment: “Bush is very good. Clinton is not so good.” Many Kurds asked me whether I supported HRC, Obama, or McCain–they are following the election with intense interest because they know their peaceful state–or perhaps their very survival as a people–depends upon the election’s outcome.

    Kurdistan of Iraq is one of the most peaceful, stable places in the world–more so than NYC in my experience. Without fear, I photographed the mosque you see below from about 10 PM to 12:30 AM by myself.

    My biggest surprise was finding that Iraq is a far nicer place to live, IMHO, than Syria. But that’s for later when I post about Syria.


    Typical Erbil street


    Two friends x4


    The friendly neighborhood souk


    Posing



    Smoke belching factory


    Ministry of Justice and a red dump truck



    The Erbil citadel


    A Kurdish leader (I assume) with the citadel in the background



    A happy wave


    Keffiyeh-anchored diverse cross-section of Kurdish society


    Hanging out with the locals


    Cosmetics




    Coca-Cola


    Fabric shop in the souk


    An Iraqi fellow shooter I met and hung out with for a bit


    A Mosque in Erbil


    Mosque in Erbil


    This mosque has a very Turkish style with blue tiles and twin minarets




  • 27May
    Categories: Photos Comments: 4


    In all my time in the UAE, I wanted to catch a decent picture of one of these liberal ladies with their hair showing. I finally got more than one opportunity in the Dubai airport when our flight to Iraq was delayed for four hours. We sat just on the other side of security and one of the female screeners was a liberal. I took some surreptitious shots with my TX-1 and then made a collage.


    “Can I help you, sir?”


    the great bearded security officer


    Twins?


    Afghans?


    Erbil, Iraq from the air



    We flew from Dubai to Erbil on Jupiter Airlines. It’s an interesting situation: the same plane makes the Dubai-Erbil trip every day, but a different airline “operates” it each day: Iraqi Airlines, Kurdistan Airways, Jupiter Airlines, and Zagros Air.